earth and sky, colors and dreams

Here are explanations or things to note, plus links to some of the filming sites for the 2026 NHK drama, Kyotojin no Hisokana Tanoshimi Rouge - Keisho:

EPISODE 1: ELEVEN HEADED KANNON

First off is the title: "京都人の密かな愉しみ". There are some acceptable translations of the title, like "Secret Pleasures of Kyoto Folk". The official English title that NHK used was "The Secret Lives of Kyoto Folk" which I find too broad. The French title shown in the opening credits is "Le Charme discret des gens de Kyoto" which IMO, doesn't quite cut it. To explore the meaning of 密かな愉しみ, these are the secret pleasures, maybe a personal hobby or pleasure that you don't want others to know about (gatekeeping?) or don't bother to talk about, and that you enjoy only in your own heart. They give you a sense of comfort or satisfaction like for example: late-night snacks, secret collections, luxurious time alone. In this case of the drama set in Kyoto, it can also refer to the unique cultures and customs that Kyoto city residents keep secret and that are not apparent to first-time visitors.

"Raku" [洛]. I am sure the notes in my drama subs clearly explains what "raku" is all about. Just to add, "rakuchu", "rakugai", "joraku" were mentioned as words having to do with "raku" or the capital city. The capital city being referred to here is of course Kyoto, not Tokyo. That is why the head priest says they're becoming obsolete, because Kyoto is no longer the capital.

The Two "Miyakos". There are two Miyakos in this drama: the older Miyako played by Tokiwa Takako, and her stepdaughter played by Hoshi Moeka.
The older Miyako's name is spelled as 三八子, while the younger Miyako is with a simple character name [洛].
We don't know if Raku was already born before her father met Miyako. But if she wasn't, aren't you bothered that Raku's father had the audacity to name his daughter after the girl who had fallen in love with him (and him with her), at the time he was married? How did Raku's poor mother felt about that?

Background story for those who did not watch the previous KyotoJin drama seasons:
Well, for now, it seems it is explained in the drama what the background story is behind the older Miyako, and why she left Kyoto for Paris. There is no need for now to add anything else, except maybe that she remained single and turned down marriage arrangements because she was still in love with Suguru.
Anyway, about the issue on saving Kuraya, she mentioned to her husband, "My mother and I did everything we could to keep the business going, even things you don't know about". I think I know what she meant, but it's best to wait. It will probably be revealed in a future episode.
Also, it seems there are recurring characters from the previous seasons who are guest starring in this season. I will discuss about them when their time comes.

The real Kuraya Harunobu. Kuraya is a fictional shop. But the shop shown and the address is real though: "Muromachi St, going up (or north) the intersection of Kamidachiuri street." Muromachi st which is a vertical street, is quite long and you need to point out the horizontal street that intersects it to give the idea of its exact location. Here is the intersection in google map street view (you will see this intersection in Ep 2). The shop used as filming location is the Tawaraya Yoshitomi Kyoto Confectionery Shop founded in 1755, and is right beside the post office.

The Chinowa Chant. When Miyako was cooking the red kidney beans for the minazuki cake, she was reciting the Chinowa chant. It is a ritual chant recited by Shinto priests during the June 30th ritual marking the start of the second half of the year, wishing for good health and good harvest. The priests pass through a huge wreath made of straw three times, with each passing through, they declare: (1) "It is said that those who perform the summer purification ritual in June will have their lifespan extended by as much as 1,000 years."; (2) "While all my worries are cleared away, I cut the hemp leaves into pieces, hopefully I can exorcise evil and impurities away"; and (3) "Somin Shorai, Somin Shorai". Somin Shorai is explained HERE.

The Ending Theme Song, "Mal Také Ebisu". It is based on the children's song "Kyoto Marutake Ebisu" which is used as a memorization song to help remember the streets found in the Kyoto city grid. For example, the first lines of the song, "Ma-Ru-Take-Ebisu-Ni-Oshi-Oike" stands for the streets from east to west (the horizontal streets) grid: Marutamachi-dori, Takeyamachi-dori, Ebisugawa-dori, Nijo-dori, Oshikoji-dori, Oike-dori. The second part of the song lists the streets from North to South or the vertical streets part of the map grid. For example the lines that start with "Tera-Goko-Fuya-Tomi-Yanagi-Sakai" stand for Teramachi-dori, Gokomachi-dori, Fuyacho-dori, Tominokoji-dori, Yanagi-no-banba-dori, Sakaimachi-dori.

Other filming sites:
Omido Kannon-ji Temple. First shrine that Raku visited after arriving in Kyoto, with the Eleven-Headed Kannon.
Address: 13 Fugenji Shimodaimon, Kyotanabe City, Kyoto

Sanjusangendo Temple. Second shrine that Raku visited, with the famous 1,001 statues of Kannon.
Address: 657 Sanjusangendomawari, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto

Nijo Bridge. Where Raku stopped to check out Kamo river and where she was seen using the stepping stones.
Address: Nijo Street, Kamo River, Kyoto (google map)



EPISODE 2: STRONGHOLD

The Three Kyoto Schools of Tea Ceremony. In the map shown in the drama, the three schools are located within the same area. These are "Omotesenke", "Urasenke", and "Mushakōjisenke". Learn more HERE.

Rakusha University. Its characters is 洛志社大学 and read as "Rakushisha University" (take note of the "raku"). It is a fictional name but the setting was shot at the Doshisha University Imadegawa Campus in Goshohachimancho, Kamigyo Ward, Kyoto. It is indeed a walking distance from the confectionery shop, and Raku's walking directions were accurate.

Edward Heathrow. One of the drama's main character and narrator in previous seasons, played by Dan Jiro. He was a professor of cultural anthropology from Yorkshire, England, and taught at Rakusha University. He made Kyoto his home base, and lived next door to the Kuraya shop. He observed Miyako through presumably a cultural anthropology point of view, since he thinks of her as the perfect person who embodies the quintessential Kyotoite, but sometimes his study of her was coming off as "stalker-ish". I've watched some of these episodes and somehow I find his character as an Englishman and story line (especially the case with his fiance) too cringey and off-putting. Actor Dan Jiro passed away on March 22, 2023, that is why Watanabe Ken assumed the role of Prof. Shinonome, to fill the void left by the late actor.

Kyoto-Jin. The kanji is 京都人. Normally, one would say 京都民 or 京都の住民 (Kyoto residents or Kyoto natives). When Raku heard "Kyoto-Jin", for her, it sounds like a different group of people or race or nationals, separate from "Nippon-jin" or Japanese person. So if forced to have an English equivalent, it probably sounded strange like "the Kyotonians" or "the Kyotonese".

Salon Kuraya. After class, Raku and her classmate went to drink tea at a cafe and tea salon which is an Ogawa branch operated by Kuraya Shop, and is located at Teranouchi st. As mentioned, Kuraya is based on Tawaraya confectionery shop, so the real Ogawa branch shop at Teranouchi is called "Salon Tawaraya", operated by Tawaraya (address: 592 Higashimachi Hokyoin Kamigyo Ward, Kyoto).
By the way, the sign in the drama that says "Salon Kuraya" is actually spelled as "Chalon Kuraya". The "cha" in "chalon" means "tea".

The Kyoto Person Certification Test. It is based on the real Kyoto Tourism and Culture Certification Test. Apparently, it is "a qualification test that certifies your knowledge of Kyoto from a wide range of perspectives, including Kyoto's history, culture, shrines and temples, festivals and events, crafts, cuisine, and lifestyles". Those who pass the Kyoto Exam will receive a "Certificate of Passing" for each level. By presenting their certificate (card), they can receive services such as discounts and exemptions to admission to cultural facilities such as Kyoto museums and art galleries. Those who pass the exam multiple times will be designated as "Kyoto Test Meisters" and will be given a cloisonné badge decorated with Swarovski crystals, corresponding to the number of times they have passed.
I think it's just too tourism gimmicky lol and there's no real merit but probably it's just a fun thing to do for Kyoto nerds fans.

Choyo no Sekku Festival. The Chrysanthemum Festival also known as Double 9 Festival (Sept 9). You can read more HERE. I have a hard time researching what exactly a kisewata is, if it's cotton wool, cotton silk, floss silk. But since it was a Heian term no longer used/practiced today, I guess no one knows what kind of cotton it is.

The 5PM Chime. When Raku came home, there's music heard in the background. It's the 5PM afternoon chime "Yuyake Koyake" song played on the neighborhood public speaker. This was already discussed in "Grace no Rireki".
Also, just before she arrived home, you could hear the temple bell being rung 5 times, signaling that it's 5PM.

"What a stubborn woman you are". If you did not notice, when Raku asked her step-grandma to take it easy and called her 8th Generation, and added, "Ninth Generation and I will take over", it was meant to give a message to her stepmother that she is still determined to take over as the 10th generation. You can see Miyako's reaction as if she understands what Raku really meant, that is why she called her a stubborn woman, realizing that she could not change Raku's mind, even after all that imploring for Raku to think about it first.

"Late by a hair's breadth, Yamashiro time". What was actually said: "Kaminoke ichi-pon, Yamashiro jikan". Professor Shinonome said this about his student after arriving one minute late.
It is a phrase that expresses the traditional Kyoto spirit of hospitality (consideration). It is good etiquette to arrive a little late, knowing that the other person will be busy preparing right up until the last minute, and arrive at the perfect time when the host has a chance to catch their breath. Late by "one hair" is around a minute or four, "two hairs" is 5-7 minutes. Also called "Yamashiro Time", with Yamashiro as the ancient province name of Kyoto prefecture (southern part), so it basically means "Kyoto Time".

Other filming sites:
Kaso Shrine on the grounds of Yoshida Shrine. Miyako's first stop after arriving in Kyoto. She prays to the god of confectionery for guidance, Hayashi Join (also Rin Join), a monk from China who introduced Chinese manju (which contained meat products) to Japan (sometime in the 1300s), and created the Japanese Buddhist version of it, using local, vegetarian ingredients.
Address: 8 Yoshidakaguraokacho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto

Honpoji Shrine. Where Miyako and Raku talked after tea. You could see them walking straight across from Salon Kuraya/Tawaraya towards the direction of the shrine.
Miyako said she gave up her dream of becoming a teacher, and cried a lot at this shrine. But it is my personal assumption that this was more than just giving up her dream. By this time, Suguru was apprenticing at Kuraya. And this was maybe when a married Suguru was sent away by her parents to work at another confectionery shop since she and he were getting too close. I could also assume that perhaps Honpoji Shrine was their secret meeting place ever since they were young, hmm...
Address: 617 Honpojimaecho, Kamigyo Ward, Kyoto


EPISODE 4: MEMORIES OF ALLEYWAYS

There isn't much explanation I can provide for this episode. I think the interesting talk with the kimono wholesaler (played by Danta Yasunori) explained well about Kyoto long-established merchant life and history. And the Nishijin talk as well was basically enough. There's not much to add.

"Seven Days... Seven Nights". It was a 1960 French drama film where Jeanne Moreau won the award for Best Actress at the Cannes Film festival held that year. In Japan, it is titled as "Ame no Shinobi Ai" or "Secret Meeting in the Rain".

The Couple Raku met. The Uemachi couple are new characters to the series but their daughter, the baker is not. Their daughter Hana (played by Shuri) trained under Tamai Toshio (the one who made the loaf of bread in Episode 3, owner of Tamai Bread Shop) who was played by Komoto Masahiro in the previous seasons. Hana is married to her farmer husband and her married name is Shoin Hana.
The Uemachi dye factory that was shown is actually the Kitamura Dye Factory [北村善染工所]. Address: Ward, 167 Shinminobechō, Kamigyo Ward, Kyoto (street view)


Other filming sites:

Shimogoryo Shrine. The shrine that the Okami-san visited at the start of the episode. It has been revered as a shrine that wards off epidemics and disasters and protects the imperial court and the capital.
Address: Shimogoryozencho, Marutamachi, Teramachi St., Nakagro Ward, Kyoto City

Kamigamo Shrine. An important Shinto sanctuary on the banks of the Kamo River in north Kyoto, first founded in 678. The archery event known as the Kasakake Ritual is dedicated every year on the third Sunday of October by the Takeda School of Archery and Horsemanship. The event includes Tonogasakake, where the archer shoots horizontally from a galloping horse, and Ogasakake, where the archer shoots at a target on the ground.
Address: 339 Kamigamo Motoyama, Kita Ward, Kyoto

The Nishijin neighborhood. The locations featuring Raku walking around are almost found in the same area/neighborhood and are walking distances away from each other. These include:

Mikami-Ke Rouji (Alleway). When Raku was walking around Nishijin, looking lost in a daze, remembering snippets of her childhood, as a little girl running through the alleyways holding a red balloon. The narrow alleyway she was at is called Mikami Ke Rouji (alley). I can't get inside using this Google Street View but it is found in the middle of a small street called Monyazuko. Address: 323 Monyachō, Kamigyo Ward, Kyoto
The Mikami-ke alleyway (take note of the name "Mikami") is where a 120 year old row house is preserved. This was once home to Nishijin textile artisans (particularly the Mikami family, hence it was named after them).
Raku then, wakes up from her daze by Uemachi, and she is suddenly in front of Uemachi/Kitamura Dye Factory.

Uhoin Temple. Where Little Raku and her biological mom went to pray. The earthen tiled wall in the backdrop is from another nearby temple called Honryuji Temple.
Address: 9-3 Shotencho, Kamigyo Ward, Kyoto (street view)